Milligan's Island

[http://www.hotwireauto.com/ Hotwire Auto]


[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]

[http://www.plumfloored.com/ Plum Floored Creations]

We have done a lot of these, and can help anyone with any questions check
out www.plumfloored.com <http://www.plumfloored.com/>

And email or give us a call, we have and never will charge for advice.

These are the best motors to come out of chrysler since 1971 by miles!!!!


== Strokers ==

We can build 6.1 into 426 cids, and 5.7s into 392, or 383s. We also
have a lot of differnet power adders avaliable including supercharger fun.

[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]

[http://www.weldtechstainless.com/ Weldtech Stainless]

The owner is a guy named rob and he is a hardcore mopar guy.



[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]

== Selecting an Engine ==

First unless it is really cheap start with a car (300C, Magnum, Charger) engine. They fit a lot better, and are much more attractive. The accessories do not fit under the hood near as well on the truck motor.

That being said the truck motor can be turned into a car motor by switching the front cover, intake, accessories, and damper.

Now if you are using a factory K frame the BEST pan on the market is from [[Weldtech_Stainless]].

== Headers ==

I have only used TTI to date, I know that in some applications the truck log manifolds may clear, but spend the money on headers is well spent.


== Block off plate vs 90 degree ==

Not all cars allow use of the 90 degree applicators. We have even had different b bodies not fit with it, and had to use the remote mount. Both TTI and [[Weldtech_Stainless]] make good pieces.


== Motor mounts ==
Both TTI and [[Weldtech_Stainless]] make good pieces.


== Computers ==

Aftermarket= AEM/Mopar or FAST These are best for race cars, and are a pain to tune intially, but if you are a qualified tuner then they are modified to fit any enviroment. If you want to run turbo/supercharger/nitrous and make big HP this might be the way to go.

Car computer. Only good if you take EVERYTHING including the transmission, ABS module, ECU, TCM, wiring harness, key, and most importantly a place to get a vehcile speed sensors.

You want everything from the same car so it has been flashed to work together. Then typically even with all this you need a custom wiring harness to make it work.

Now the truck has a computer that is a better starting point. Some truck computers without security in the computer can be reused, ALL other require reflashing unless you use the key setup out of the truck. A good DIY can get this to work if they are starting with a truck that does not have security. I recommend that someone buy the harness and computer from howitre for their application (i.e. manual or automatic)

The best place to buy the harness and computers from [[Hotwire Auto]]. They are good people and do a nice job.

== Carb conversions ==

I only partially understand these. Why, since the motor doesn't have a distributer you still need a computer to run the timing, and coils, so why go back 50 years? That being said this can be done, but by the time you buy the intake, carb, wiring harness, and computer it ends up being more expensive than EFI, w/o the benefits.


== Transmissions ==

* NAG1 car 5spd GREAT Transmission, but requires reworking of the crossmember and tunnel to fit, and adaptation of a custom driveshaft since it does not use a typical yoke. It requires the autostick and all the wiring out of the car to work, and a vehicle sensor. This trans shift hard, and can take a lot of power.

* Truck 5spd auto, I know this can be used, is ran by the 2004-05
computer, and asside from its size works well. Much simplier installation


* 518A is what we recommend for a auto if OB is desired or 727A is a great choice too

* Vintage 5spd we prefer for manual conversion, but obviouslly a 833 can be done as well


== Getting Help ==

A good source of help in your Hemi conversion, contact [[Plum Floored Creations]].

== References ==
* Originally compiled by Ben Grasso

[[Category:Engines]]
[[Category:Engine Modifications]]

== The Heads ==

Chrysler Third Generation Hemi Cylinder Head
{| border="1"
! [[:Category:Casting Numbers|Casting Number]] !! [[:Category:Part Numbers|Part Number]] !! Year !! Applications !!Chamber(cc) !! Exhaust Port !! Intake Port !! Image

|-
| [[53021616BA]] || ? || 03-08 || 5.7 || ? || ? || ? || None

|-
| [[05037369AA]] || ? || 04-09 || 6.1 || ? || ? || ? || None


|}


[[Category:Casting Numbers]]
[[Category:Engines]]

[http://www.moparrebellion.com/ Mopar Rebellion]



[[Category:Clubs]]

[http://marylandmopars.net/ Maryland Mopars]

Maryland Mopars is a group of classic car enthusiasts based in the Baltimore/Glen Burnie, Maryland area.

[[Category:Clubs]]

{| width="100%"
|width="60%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="4" | Front
|-
! Application !! Diameter !! Bore !! Wagner P/N
|-
|60-66 A body || 9" || 1" || F34177/8
|-
|67-72 A body || 9" || 1" || F71202/3
|-
|73 A body || 9" || 1-1/16" || F80918/9
|-
|73-76 A body || 10" || 1-1/8" || F73626/7
|-
|64.5-69 A body || - || 1-1/8" || F40416/7
|-
|62-69 B body || - || " || "
|-
|63-69 C body || - || " || "
|-
|63-66 D body || - || " || "
|-
|70-72 A body || - || 1-3/16" || F73608/9
|-
|70-72 B body || - || " || "
|-
|70-72 C body || - || " || "
|-
|70-72 E body || - || " || "
|}

|width="40%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="3" | Rear
|-
! Application !! Bore!! Wagner P/N
|-
|60-76 A body (9") || 13/16" || F34876
|-
|66-68 C body || 7/8" || F106006
|-
|68-69 D body || " || "
|-
|62-64 B body || 15/16" || F40418
|-
|63-64 C body || " || "
|-
|63-64 D body || " || "
|-
|64.5-76 A body || " || F106315
|-
|65-78 B body || " || "
|-
|65-76 C body || " || "
|-
|65-67 D body || " || "
|-
|70-74 E body || " || "
|-
|76-80 F body || " || "
|-
|77-87 M body || " || "
|-
|80-83 J body || " || "
|-
|79-81 R body || " || "
|}

|}


[[Category:Brakes]]

{| width="100%"
|width="60%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="4" | Front
|-
! Application !! Diameter !! Type !! Wagner P/N
|-
|64.5-69 A body ||10.87" || Pin Caliper || F79333
|-
|70-72 A body ||" || " || F66718
|-
|69-72 C body || " || " || F37565
|-
|70-73 E body||" || " || "
|-
|70-72 B body ||" || " || "
|-
|73 C body||" || " || F79380
|-
|74-76 C body ||" || " || F88970
|-
|74 E body || " || " || "
|-
|73-74 B body || " || " || F79381
|-
|75.5-77 B body || 11.75" || " || "
|-
|73-76 A body || 10.87" || Slider Caliper || F79382
|-
|76-79 F body || " || " || F99070/1
|-
|77-79 M body || " || " || "
|-
|80-87 M body || " || " || F104350/1
|-
|80 F body || " || " || "
|-
|80-83 J body || " || " || "
|-
|79-81 R body || 11.75" || " || F99069
|-
|78 B body || " || " || "
|-
|60-66 A body || - || Drum || F24070
|-
|67-69 A body || 9" || Drum || F64877
|-
|64.5-69 A body || 10" || Drum || F49776
|-
|62-69 B body || - || Drum || "
|-
|63-69 C body || - || Drum || "
|-
|70-72 C body || - || Drum || F73276
|-
|70-72 E body || - || Drum || F73279
|-
|70-72 B body || - || Drum || "
|-
|70-72 A body || - || Drum || F66718
|-
|73-76 A body || - || Drum || F79383
|}

|width="40%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="3" | Rear
|-
! Application !! Type !! Wagner P/N
|-
|67-68 C body || Drum || F24070
|-
|67?-71 A body || Drum || F73278
|-
|62?-71 B body || Drum || "
|-
|70-71 E body || Drum || "
|-
|72-76 A body || Drum || F86608
|-
|72-78 B body || Drum || "
|-
|72-74 E body || Drum || "
|-
|76-78 F body || Drum || "
|-
|77-78 M body || Drum || "
|-
|79-81 R body || Drum || "
|-
|74.5-76 C body || Drum || F84528
|-
|79-80 F body || Drum || F98911
|-
|79-87 M body || Drum || "
|-
|80-83 J body || Drum || "
|}

|}


[[Category:Brakes]]

{| width="100%"
|width="50%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="5" | Front
|-
! Application !! Piston !! Rotor Dia. !! Type !! Wagner P/N
|-
|64.5-72 A body || 1-5/8" || 10.87" || Pin || CR130222/3
|-
|67-69 B body || 2" || " || " || CR130205
|-
|66-68 C body || 2-3/8" || " || " || CR130232/3
|-
|67-69 D body || " || " || " || "
|-
|69-73 C body || 2-3/4" || " || " || CR76790/1
|-
|74-76 C body || 3-3/32" || " || " || CR104396/7
|-
|70-72 B body || 2-3/4" || " || " || CR80948/9
|-
|70-74 E body || " || " || " || "
|-
|73-75 B body || " || " || " || CR80944/5
|-
|75.5-77 B body || " || 11.75" || " || "
|-
|73-74 B body || 2-19/32" || 10.87" || Slider || CR83272/3
|-
|73-75 A body || " || " || " || "
|-
|80-87 M body || 2-3/4" || " || " || CR102456/7
|-
|80 F body || " || " || " || "
|-
|80-83 J body || " || " || " || "
|-
|76 A body || " || " || " || CR83286/7
|-
|77-79 M body || " || " || " || "
|-
|76-79 F body || " || " || " || "
|-
|78 B body || " || 11.75" || " || "
|-
|79-81 R body || " || " || " || "
|}

|width="50%" valign="top" |

{| border="1"
|-
! colspan="5" | Rear
|-
! Application !! Piston !! Rotor Dia. !! Type !! Wagner P/N
|-
| 74-75 C body || 2-19/32" || - || - || CR83272/3
|}

|}


[[Category:Brakes]]

Unless you are going to eliminate the torsion bars, every choice you have listed is a non-starter except the [[A833]]. This unique feature of classic Mopars makes it difficult to install a physically larger transmission. Unlike cars that use coil springs, Mopars support suspension loads low in the body via the torsion bar cross member. The transmission must pass below this structural member with the transmission mount sandwiching the tail shaft between itself and the torsion bar cross member. If a transmission is too large it will hang down too low and make drivetrain alignment impossible. Altering the torsion bar cross member needs to be done with care as it provides a large portion of the unitbody's structural integrity.

Ther [[T56]] is bigger and weaker than the [[TKO]] that [[Keisler]] sells. I spoke to Keisler about their 6 speed kit and discovered it requires alteration of the torsion bar cross member. I assume the Tremics in the new [[Viper]]s are bigger than the T56 but that is an assumption. This basic gear set is used in many transmissions and transaxels so maybe a custom case that fits would be a possible aftermarket project.

The [[NV4500]] and [[NV5600]] are poor choices because in addition to their large size, they are heavy, slow shifting, and geared for heavy trucks. Unless you are going to mount your car on a truck frame, forget about them.

The [[NV3500]] might be a possible choice. I don't know how big it is but it looks comparable to a TKO at first glance. It has marginal strength but a 318 in a Satelite should be within it's design parameters. It is still geared for a truck and shifts slow so it would probably not be much fun after all that work.

The [[A833]] has a lot of overdrive options. The factory offered a version that used an undersized third gear to provide overdrive. The 3-4 shift lever was flipped upside down to put the overdrive third gear in the lower right position of the shift pattern. The OD A833 came in two lengths just like the non-OD version. The short tailshaft was used in A and F bodies. The long tail shaft version was used in trucks and vans and has all of the shifter mounting provisions for B and E body cars. This design had a couple weaknesses. The overdrive being in 3rd meant a lot of wear from cruising in third. The transmission came with an aluminum case that was actually pretty strong but had a floating counter shaft. It is common to install bushings at rebuild time. This isn't the strongest transmission ever made but there are people running them behind big and small blocks and they seem to live OK. The wide gear spacing is a problem if you are dealing with a narrow power band. The biggest problem for a swap is the huge front bearing retainer on the OD trans that will require machining most belhousings if it is not changed. You simply use one off of a big block. There were basically 4 different bearing retainers. Small pattern small diameter, small pattern big diameter, Big pattern big diameter and the o/d one is big pattern super big diameter. So bolt on the big pattern and big diameter and it will simply fit most belhousings. Ma mopar felt they needed to make the o/d one bigger because it was aluminum.

The aftermarket has provided some overdrive alternativess to [[Ronnie Sox]]'s favorite four speed. [[Passon Performance]] has released an 18 spline overdrive gear set that is claimed to be as strong as any hemi gear set. They also offer aluminum cases and tailshafts. The tail shafts are important because the factory never offered aluminum tail shafts and the Direct Connection ones are impossible to find. [[Gear Vendors]] offers their planetary overdrive for the A833 as a tailshaft replacement. I think it is also aluminum. The OD unit sits back from the transmission so it can fit under the floor pan without alteration. The prop shaft has to be shortened significantly which is a drawback as it makes drive train alignment more difficult. This is an expensive unit but it does provide an 8 speed.


[[Category:Manual Transmissions]]
[[Category:Transmission Modifications]]

Typically an overheating problem at low speed is air flow related. However condition of the radiator can contribute.

*First make sure the fins are in good condition and are making good contact with the tubes. Apply a little pressure with the tip of one of your fingers to the front of the fins and run your finger across the front edge of the fins parallel with the tubes. Do they deform easily? Do they crumble like potato chips or have an orange color to them? Is there any scale inside the tubes? Typically these symptoms result in overheating at speed but inefficiencies can compound upon each other.

*Is the fan a stock unit? How does the fan fit in the shroud? Is there about an inch or so between the tips of the fan blades and the shroud opening? How deep is the fan in the shroud opening?

*Is the clutch turning the fan adequately? I've had new clutches go bad in 2 years (or less). If you shut the car off and the fan continues to turn much more than about 1/2 to 1 full turn you probably have a bad clutch.

*If the timing is retarded it can cause excessively high combustion temps that can overwhelm your cooling systems capacity at low rpm and/or low speed.

*Is your engine stock?

*Unleaded fuels burn hotter than the fuels that our classics were designed for and oxygenated fuels even hotter yet (THAT is why they went to hardened steel seats for the exhaust valves). This certainly doesn't help.

*Water pump overheating causations are very rare but it does happen. It is uncommon but the vanes of the water pump can rust away and on a very few occasions I've seen the impeller come completely loose (this is VERY evident as the water doesn't move at all and the vehicle will overheat, always. Kind of like a stuck thermostat but the heater and heater lines won't get warm either). Make sure that the water is moving briskly when the thermostat is open.

*A thermostat that is stuck shut will usually cause overheating within a couple of miles of starting the vehicle. A thermostat that is stuck partly open will allow coolant flow as soon as a cold engine is started. Overheating from a thermostat that is stuck partly open will usually show up at highway speeds, but, with a large, efficient radiator may only show up in high load conditions or on hot days.

==References==
* Originally composed by Karl Middlemas

[[Category:Engine Problems]]

[http://www.performancedistributors.com/ Davis Unified Ignition] produces high performance ignition systems.


[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]
[[Category:Ignition Suppliers]]

It is probably impossible to do a good job of rebuilding a Dana 60 axle if it is not removed from the vehicle and placed on a benchtop or on sawhorses. So, the first step in rebuilding is to remove the entire axle from the vehicle. However, prior to removing the axle from the vehicle, it is a good idea to loosen the drive pinion nut. Set the parking brake and use a long breaker bar (or impact wrench) and 1-5/16" socket to loosen the nut.

When tearing down a Dana 60 axle for rebuilding, is it very important to record the thickness of the shim packs that were originally used. This data will be used in selecting proper shim packs for the rebuild. Shims are used in 4 places to set up a Dana 60 axle: under each differential bearing cone (part 21 in Figure 1, locate differential and provide bearing preload), in the housing under the inner pinion bearing cup (part 4 in Figure 1, sets drive pinion depth), and on the drive pinion, under the outer drive pinion bearing cone (part 6 in Figure 1, sets drive pinion bearing preload).

The axle shafts are removed and the differential is removed from the housing after the cover and main caps are removed. Prior to removing the differential from the case, runout of the differential should be checked with a dial indicator while turning the differential. Less than 0.006" is satisfactory. Before removing the main caps, their relationship to the housing should be observed or freshly marked. Typically, a letter is stamped into the upper or lower end of each cap (same letter on both caps). This stamping will either be oriented horizontally, or vertically, with the two caps being different. In the cover sealing lip of the housing adjacent to the main caps, the same letter should be stamped. The orientation of the stamping in the cap and adjacent housing lip should be the same and is used to distinguish between left and right caps. The caps are to be replaced so that the stamping in the cap and housing have the same orientation and are adjacent to each other. Once the main caps are removed, the differential can be pried from the housing using two bars, one at the top of the housing and one at the bottom.

The next step is to remove the drive pinion. First, the nut is removed from the forward end of the drive pinion, and a puller is used to remove the yoke. The pinion seal is removed. Between the yoke and the outer pinion bearing is an oil slinger (part 8 in Figure 1) which should be saved for reuse. On drive pinions with fine splines, the outer pinion bearing is not pressed on and so will slide off the drive pinion easily. At this point, the fine spline drive pinion will fall into the housing for removal. The outer pinion bearing cone is pressed onto coarse spline drive pinions (not a very tight fit). A coarse spline drive pinion must be driven out of the housing, using a suitable soft metal pad between the hammer and the end of the drive pinion to avoid damaging the threads (7/8"-14 NF). Collect and record the thickness of bearing preload shims that were between the outer drive pinion bearing cone and the shoulder on the drive pinion.

Once the drive pinion and differential are removed from the housing, the bearings can be removed from them. Inner drive pinion bearing cones and differential bearing cones are pressed on, so a bearing puller must be used to remove them. Be sure to collect and measure the shim packs beneath the differential bearings. Left and right side packs will be different in thickness.

To rebuild the differential, it is a straightforward procedure to remove the bolts holding the two Powr-Lok case halves together (7/16" NC RH thread), and replace the clutches, being sure to install them in the correct sequence (see Figure 1). Be sure to mark the case halves so that they can be reassembled in the same orientation to each other. A dished plate (part 60 in Figure 1) rides against each differential case half and a dished disk (part 59 in Figure 1) is inboard of each dished plate. The concave side of the dished plates and disks faces outboard. The rest of the plates (parts 57) and disks (parts 58) are flat. When installing truck differentials in cars, it is usually necessary to replace the differential gears which the axle shaft splines engage (part 55 in Figure 1). These are readily available for 1-1/2"x35 spline axle shafts as are the pinion gears and shafts (parts 53 and 54 in Figure 1). In older Powr-Loks, the differential gear ring (part 56 in Figure 1) is splined as well as the differential gear (part 55 in Figure 1). If this is the case, it is critical that the splines in each of these parts are aligned before the differential case bolts are tightened. If not, it will be impossible to install the axle shafts. To align the splines, install the axle shafts before tightening the differential case bolts.

Next, the drive pinion bearing cups can be punched from the housing, using a long brass drift. Sometimes, but not always, a baffle is placed beneath the inner drive pinion cup (part 5 in Figure 1). Baffles are typically used in Dana 60 front axles, presumably to control lubricant. In front axles, the rotation of the drive pinion tends to cause the teeth to force lubricant against the pinion seal when the vehicle is moving forward. Again, be sure to collect and measure the thickness of the shim pack beneath the inner drive pinion bearing cup (part 4 in Figure 1).

Prior to reassembly, the inside of the housing tubes should be cleaned. This author has had excellent and rapid results using a 2" bronze wire wheel (to avoid sparks) rigged with a 3-foot length of 3/8" threaded rod. Pour a pool of solvent in the tube, chuck the threaded rod in a drill, and work the wire wheel back and forth in the tube to remove the grunge. Should be like new after only a few passes. Flush tubes and housing with clean solvent.

If the gear set is to be changed, it is important to compare the markings on the ends of both old and new drive pinions. It is also important to see that the drive pinion and ring gear of the new gearset match. They should have some stamping, engraving, or paint mark in common. On its end, at the 12 o'clock position, each drive pinion should have a mark something like 0, +1, -2. This is the deviation of that particulars drive pinion from ideal pinion depth in the housing. The markings on both drive pinions (old and new) are subtracted, and the difference is added or subtracted from the drive pinion depth shim pack to be placed beneath the inner drive pinion bearing cup. For example, if the old drive pinion was marked "-2" and the new drive pinion is marked "0", one would remove 0.002" from the drive pinion depth shim pack - the old pinion was 0.002" below the ideal drive pinion depth so the original shim pack was made 0.002" thicker to compensate - because the new pinion in this example is expected to be exactly at the ideal depth.

The corrected drive pinion depth shim pack is placed in the housing and the new inner drive pinion cup is driven into place with a long brass drift. The new outer drive pinion cup can be driven into place at this time as well. It is not useful to chill the drive pinion bearing cups, because freezer temperatures will not contract them enough to ease installation.

Next, the differential bearing shim packs must be determined. This step can be omitted if the original differential is to be reused - the original shim pack thicknesses should be used for the first trial. To ease the trial-and-error process of determining correct differential bearing shim packs, dummy or test bearings should be produced. Two new differential bearing cones are modified by hand- grinding a small amount from the inner diameter of the inner race. A minute or two with a medium-grade tootsie roll in a die grinder will be sufficient. Grind just enough out so that the bearings slip into place with no pressing required, but do not grind so much that the bearings wobble when in place. The first trial is to determine total differential shim pack thickness. Install 0.040" shims beneath each of the dummy differential bearings, and then place the differential into the housing with the differential bearing cups. It is not essential to install the main caps at this stage. Set up a dial indicator to allow measurement of differential end-play in the housing. Move the differential to the left and right while observing the dial indicator for the measurement. Take care not to cock the differential and produce a false reading. Remove the differential from the housing. Add the measurement just taken to the total shim pack thickness (0.080") previously installed. This is defined as thickness A. Now, compare this number to the thickness of the original shim pack that was removed, minus 0.015". If the two numbers are within a few thousandths, install the original shim packs (left and right) on the differential. If there is more than a few thousandths difference, the right and left shim pack thicknesses must be independently determined. To do this, the drive pinion must be installed in the housing.

For checking the setup, the drive pinion is installed without preload shims under the outer drive pinion bearing cone. The pinion seal and slinger should be left out at this stage as well. If the drive pinion has coarse splines, a dummy outer drive pinion bearing cone should be produced to ease the setup procedures, as was done for differential dummy bearings. Install the drive pinion in the housing, install the outer pinion bearing cone and yoke, and torque the pinion nut just snug. Now, tap each end of the drive pinion to seat the bearing cones in the housing. Do not tap hard enough to damage the bearing cups or cones. At this point, the drive pinion should be difficult to turn. If it is easy to turn, apply additional torque to the pinion nut. Now, reinstall the differential with 0.040" of shim under the left (driver's) differential bearing cone. Set up the dial indicator, and check endplay between the left side of the housing and the drive pinion. In other words, push the differential to the left and right. When pushing it to the right, the pinion against the ring gear will stop its movement. The dial indicator measurement added to the 0.040" of shim is the desired shim pack thickness for the left differential bearing (thickness B). To determine the right differential bearing shim pack thickness, subtract thickness B from thickness A and then add 0.015" (for differential bearing preload). This is the desired shim pack thickness for the right differential bearing.

Once the desired differential bearing shim packs are installed, reinstall the differential in the housing, still using the dummy differential cones and cups. Installation will be a tight fit. Factory procedures call for use of a case spreader at this stage (Miller Tool W-129). However, use of this tool is somewhat dangerous to the integrity of the housing, and is not essential to successful setup. Careful tapping on the differential bearing cups using a wood block or brass drift, back and forth from the left bearing to the right and back, will ease the differential into the housing. Once the differential is in place, install main caps and torque to 40-50 ft-lbs.

Next, set up the dial indicator to measure lash. This should be taken on a tangent to the outer edge of the ring gear, and parallel with the ring gear mounting plane. The measurement should be taken at 4 places, 90 degrees apart. There should be no more than 0.002" difference in the 4 lash measurements and the lash should average between 0.008" and 0.010". The factory service manuals call for 0.004" to 0.009" average lash, but a loose lash is preferred over a tight lash for satisfactory performance. The runout measurement taken on the ring gear before the differential was first removed should be rechecked with the new ring gear. If unsatisfactory, the ring gear can be moved on the differential in an attempt to remove the runout. If the lash measurement is close to what is desired, one can proceed to checking the mesh pattern. If not, the differential shim pack thicknesses should be adjusted by moving shims from one side of the differential to the other. Each 0.003" of shim moved will change lash about 0.002".

To check the mesh, mark 8-10 teeth on the ring gear with marking compound. White latex interior house paint works fine. Now, turn the drive pinion while applying drag to the differential with a bar or stick pried against its side. Turn the drive pinion both ways through the marked teeth. Observe the pattern where the paint is rubbed off the surface of the teeth. The pattern should be well- centered on both sides of each tooth. If the wiped area is not centered, the drive pinion depth shim pack must be changed. Use Figure 3 as an aid to determining the action required. Bear in mind that, if pinion depth is decreased by removing shims, the differential shim packs will need to be changed to move the ring gear closer to the pinion. And, if the pinion depth is increased by adding shims, the opposite action on the differential shim pack thicknesses is required. For each 0.010" of pinion depth change, the differential needs to move about 0.008". This is the most tedious aspect of Dana 60 axle setup - the trial-and-error process of simultaneously arriving at correct mesh and lash. The second axle is always easier than the first!

Once the pinion depth and differential bearing setup is complete, the dummy differential bearings can be replaced with new bearings. These bearings can be pressed into place, being careful to preserve the shim pack thicknesses so painstakingly determined. This author has found that heating the bearings in a 400F degree oven for 10 minutes will expand them enough that they slip into place with ease. This procedure also works well for the inner drive pinion bearing cone, and for the outer drive pinion bearing cone on coarse spline drive pinions, as well as for axle bearings. The drive pinion, differential, or axle should be cooled prior to bearing installation, or even stored in a freezer for a few hours.

The final aspect of Dana 60 axle setup is determining drive pinion bearing preload shim pack thickness. Remove the drive pinion from the case and install shims beneath the outer drive pinion bearing cone equal to the drive pinion depth shim pack plus 0.010". Reinstall the drive pinion in the housing with the yoke, again torquing the pinion nut. This time, while torquing check for bind of the drive pinion. If none is detected, torque the pinion nut to at least 100 ft-lbs. If bind is detected, more shims must be added beneath the inner drive pinion bearing cone. There should be obvious end-play in the drive pinion at this stage. Set the dial indicator up and measure this end-play. Remove the drive pinion from the housing to adjust the preload shim pack thickness. Subtract the end-play measurement from the drive pinion bearing preload shim pack and subtract an additional 0.001" to 0.002" to provide the preload. Reinstall the drive pinion with corrected pinion bearing preload shim pack and reinstall outer drive pinion bearing. This time, before installing the yoke, install the pinion seal and oil slinger. Install yoke and torque pinion nut to 250 ft-lbs.

Reinstall the differential in the housing, and recheck lash once more. Lash may decrease a couple of thousandths when the new differential bearings are installed. Lash should increase a little as the bearings seat, but this is another reason to set lash on the loose side to start. If lash is satisfactory, the cap bolts can be torqued to 80 ft-lbs with loc-tite. This author uses new Grade 9 cap bolts torqued to 100 ft-lbs for final assembly.

At this stage, setup is complete. All that is left is to reinstall the cover and fill with lube.

Don't forget the Sure Grip Additive!

==References==
* Original author Paul M. Pitcher

[[Category:Differentials]]
[[Category:How To]]

[http://www.designed2drive.com/ Design2drive] is a hobby company that offers products to adapt GM HEI ignition modules to Mopar engines.

They can be contacted at [mailto:sales@designed2drive.com sales@designed2drive.com] or 661-877-2045 (from 9AM-7PM PST Mon-Fri).

[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]
[[Category:Ignition Suppliers]]

The GM High Energy Ignition (HEI) has become a popular conversion for Mopars that are nor equiped with electronic igntion.

The HEI unit can be mounted anywhere but be sure to use the heat transfer compound behind the module wherever you mount it.


== Mopar HEI Conversion Bracket ==

[[designed2drive]] offers an adapter to use the 4 pin HEI on a MOPAR electronic ignition distributor prices around $40. This way you get to eliminate the ballast resistor and if you run an
aftermarket HEI module you should still be under $100 for everything including the correct vacuum advance distributor. $20 from pick-&-Pull.

The HEI module is produced by various aftermarket companies including ACCEL (The [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ACC%2D35361&N=700+4294925143+400020+4294845520+4294908216+4294840140+115&autoview=sku ACCELL HEI module] is available from Summit for about $40).


== Davis Unified Ignition ==
[[Davis Unified Ignition]] offers distributors that mount the HEI unit. This is a single wire ignition system housing the coil and module are mounted in the distributor.

==References==
* Originally compiled by Dennis(wecycle) in Delhi, CA.

[[Category:Engine_Modifications]]

Rebuilding the Chrysler LA engine offers some interesting choices
in modern cylinder heads and performance manifolds. Probably the
biggest incentive to consider using modern heads is the presence of
hardened exhaust valve seats, enabling the use of unleaded fuel
without appreciable erosion of the exhaust valve seat. Induction
hardening of exhaust valve seats was begun in the early 70s. In
addition, the latest heads were designed to optimize combustion to
enhance fuel economy. These so-called "swirl port" heads were
introduced sometime during the 1985 model year, and were probably
offered in versions for 318-2bbl, 318-4bbl, and 360 (truck)
applications. Donor cars for these are becoming plentiful in the
salvage yards, and with the information contained in this report,
the reader can make some informed choices.


== Condition ==

A few words on condition are waranted. Sometimes, heads found on
junkyard cars are cracked. Cracks typically form in the area
between the valve seats as a result of engine overheating.
Therefore, fleet vehicles which have been abused in city driving
(like taxis) may not make the best donor vehicles for cylinder
heads. Often valves in used heads are reusable. Check the
flatness of the end of valve stems as a crude indication of the
amount of wear on the valve. Heavy carbon deposits in the exhaust
ports are an indication that the engine was running rich, so the
likelihood of burned valve seats due to an excessively lean air-
fuel mixture might be lower. My observation is that considerable
variation in chamber volume can be expected, especially in later
castings, which tend to be of lower quality than earlier ones.
Differences of one or even two cubic centimeters (ccs) between
chamber volumes in the same head can be seen in later heads. Since
it is recommended that chambers vary no more than 0.3 cc, it is
advisable to check chamber volumes and consider equalizing them
before planned machine work is started. Often it is a single
chamber that is unequal to the rest. Another indication of casting
quality is the surface texture in the chamber, which is much
rougher in later castings. Finally, casting or machining defects
are sometimes seen. If the holes for valve cover bolts are not
jigged accurately, the drill can penetrate into the intake port,
resulting in a potential vacuum leak that should be welded shut.


== The Heads ==

Chrysler Small Block Cylinder Head Volumes (cc)
{| border="1"
! [[:Category:Casting Numbers|Casting Number]] !! [[:Category:Part Numbers|Part Number]] !! Year !! Applications !!Chamber(cc) !! Exhaust Port !! Intake Port !! Image

|-
| [[2465315]]<br/>[[2658920]] || ? || 65-66 || 273 || 64.5 || 60 || 127 || None

|-
| [[3418915]] || ? || 71-72 || 340/360 "J" || 71 || 69 || 149 || None

|-
| [[4027596]] || ? || 80-84 || 360 || 71 || 65 || 149 || None

|-
| [[4323345]] || ? || 85-91 || ? || 74 || 62 || 150 || None

|-
| [[4323302]] || ? || 85-91 || ? || 62 || 54 || 118 || None

|-
| ? || [[P4452758]] || ? || Mopar Performance || 62 || 54 || 118 || None

|}

Production heads used on 1964-66 LA engines have closed chambers
57-65 cubic centimeters (cc) in volume. The pair I examined had
chamber volumes averaging 64.5 cc. Exhaust ports average 60cc in
volume and intake ports average 127cc in volume. The valves are
1.78 inches in diameter (intake) and 1.50 inches in diameter
(exhaust).

For 1971 and 1972, 340 and 360 engines were equipped with 3418915
heads, so-called "J" heads, because of the cast-in J in three
locations (backwards in one place) on each head. These were either
equipped with 1.88"/1.60" valves, or 2.02"/1.60" valves, and have
"open" chambers with volumes of 65-73 cc. Open chambers have a
circular margin. The heads I examined had the larger valves and an
average chamber volume of 71 cc. The ports are large, averaging 69
cc (exhaust) and 149 cc (intake).

Police sedans were equipped with a high performance 318 engine,
which was equipped with 360 heads and a 4 bbl carburetor
(Thermoquad through 1984, Quadrajet from 1985). The earlier ('80-
'84) heads have a 4027596 casting number and a cast-in "360" on the
top of an intake runner. It has an open combustion chamber with a
volume of between 66 and 72.5 cc. The pair of heads I measured
averaged 71 cc. The valves are 1.88"/1.60" and the ports are
large, averaging 65cc on the exhaust side and 149cc on the intake
side. Note how similar the volumes of these heads are compared to
the performance heads of the early 1970s. Police engines are
equipped with flat top pistons with no valve reliefs. Calculated
compression ratio is 8.4:1.

Beginning in 1985, police sedans were equipped with a different 360
head, 4323345, with larger pushrod holes, 11/16" in diameter,
instead of 1/2" as found on all earlier heads. The larger pushrod
holes are to accommodate hydraulic roller lifters, which were
introduced in 1985. The chamber is open and its volume is slightly
larger than the earlier 360 heads, 69 to 77 cc. The two heads I
measured averaged 74 cc. Port sizes are very similar to earlier
heads, and the larger pushrod hole does not narrow the intake port
relative to the earlier heads. These heads also have 1.88"/1.60"
valves. Because the piston pin height is 0.020" greater, the
calculated compression ratio is similar to earlier engines, even
though the chambers are larger. It has been suggested that the 345
heads are a swirl port design, but the port and chamber shape is
indistinguishable from earlier heads.

It may be problematic to use the 345 head on certain early
applications because of the large combustion chamber. In order to
preserve the compression ratio, excessive amounts may need to be
planed off the deck surface of the head or off the block deck. For
any open chamber head, the chamber volume is reduced about 0.2 cc
for each 0.001" planed off the deck surface of the head. If more
than 0.010" is removed from the deck surface, the intake surface
will need to be milled to allow the intake manifold to fit. Mill
0.0095" from the intake surface for each 0.010" milled off the deck
surface of the head.

The 318-2bbl heads (4323302) used from 1985 on are a swirl port
design with a closed (heart-shaped) combustion chamber design with
a chamber volume of between 56 and 65 cc. The 4 heads I examined
averaged 62cc in volume. The 302 head has 1.78"/1.50" valves and
small ports averaging 54cc on the exhaust side and 118cc on the
intake side. The intake ports have a more severe dogleg than
earlier heads because the holes for the pushrods are larger -
11/16". Cars equipped with the 302 head have a dished piston to
keep the compression ratio from being too high. Some cars left the
factory with nail head exhaust valves in 302 heads, others with
semi-tulip exhaust valves, which add 0.6-0.75 cc to the chamber
volume. There is an interesting excerpt in "Mopar Engines", page
72, describing how such a head was ported and made to flow as well
or better than other small block cylinder heads. Apparently, this
experimentation resulted in the master for today's Mopar
Performance P4452758 cylinder head.

== References ==
Originally compiled by Paul M. Pitcher
* Shepard, Larry (1989). ''How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines'' , HPBooks
* Shepard, Larry. ''Mopar Engines 8th edition'', Mopar Performance
* Schreib, Larry (1991). ''How to Build Dodge and Plymouth Performance'', SA Design
The work of Bob Mullen, one of the principal designers of the W2 cylinder head is highlighted.

[[Category:Casting Numbers]]
[[Category:Engines]]

The impetus to consider modifications to the ports of modern small
block heads comes from the need to match performance manifolds to
them. As a footnote, it is interesting that production exhaust
manifolds on 1985 and newer M bodies (Diplomat/Gran Fury) have
openings that are similar in size to the 340 HP manifolds of '68-
'70 or '71. Thus, when these or 340 HP exhaust manifolds are mated
to the 4323302 heads, a huge "step" exists at the transition
between the head and the exhaust manifold.

Other performance-enhancing modifications besides port-matching
manifolds include 1) removing the "steps" at the transition between
the valve seat and the combustion chamber and at the transition
between the valve seat and bowl, 2) smoothing the transition
between the exhaust bowl and runner, and 3) polishing the exhaust
bowl and runner. Each of these modifications will be described.
A cautionary note is in order: modifications to the port
configuration will not necessarily result in performance gains.
Unless the home-porter has access to a flow bench for evaluation of
modifications, attempts to extensively modify the port
configuration should be avoided. Instead, simple line-of-sight
smoothing and removal of gross obstructions to flow should be the
objective. Keep in mind the direction of gas flow and consider
inertia of the flowing gas as cuts are planned. That said, for
intake ports, bigger is generally better.

One other easily solved problem arises when mating modern heads to
early applications. That is the air injection port present on the
late heads. Simply tap this opening with a 1/4"-20 NC tap and
thread in a socket-head set screw to plug it.


== Materials ==


The equipment needed by the home-porter is readily available and
not prohibitive in cost. A pneumatic die grinder is essential.
The "mini" designs, such as Ingersoll-Rand 307A offer greater
maneuverability and control. Die grinders consume a lot of air,
and a higher capacity air compressor is desirable. A selection of
carbide burrs is required. The most useful configurations are:
3/8" cylindrical, 3/8" round nose, taper nose, 3/8" ball, and 1/4"
round nose. One bit of each type is sufficient to do several
heads. Sandpaper "tootsie rolls" are also needed to polish the
ports after cutting is completed. These are offered in taper and
straight cylindrical shapes. About 15 each coarse and fine grade
taper rolls and 5 of each grade straight rolls are needed for each
pair of heads. A mandrel is needed to mount the rolls in the
grinder. Good lighting is essential. A dust mask and goggles are
recommended as safety equipment. The total cost of this equipment
is between $100 and $200.


== Porting Procedure ==


Before investing many hours in grinding and polishing, take the
heads to a machine shop for cleaning and magnafluxing to detect
cracks. It makes no sense to invest a lot of time on a cracked
head, unless you're just doing it for practice. If you end up with
a cracked head, don't just scrap it, have it sliced up with a power
hack saw through the ports so that you can observe the thickness of
the walls in critical locations.

The first procedure for the uninitiated should be to remove casting
flash on the outside of each head to be modified. This will
provide the porter with familiarity with the equipment and its
characteristics. Use the 3/8" cylindrical burr exclusively for
this procedure, and save the wear on the other burrs. It will take
between 1 and 2 hours to remove all the flash, including the flash
adjacent to the pushrod holes, at the "window" between the rocker
gear side and the block side of the head. There are 3 rules in
using a die grinder: 1) use two hands on the grinder at all times,
2) keep it moving to avoid gouging the metal, and 3) take light
cuts at high RPM for the smoothest surface texture and best
control. Be aware that using the end of the cutter can result in
the grinder spinning out of control and damaging a valve seat, for
example.

Next, the manifolds to be used should be matched to the port
openings of the head. First, clean up the openings on the
manifolds, simply straightening the edges of the openings and
removing minor casting flash. Then bolt up the manifolds to the
heads. Two bolts in each manifold-head junction are sufficient.
To port match the heads to the manifolds, you'll need a shop vacuum
sweeper, duct tape, and a can of spray paint. The procedure
described here is an easier substitute for traditional gasket
matching. Tape off each valve seat, except the one for the port to
be marked. Wrap duct tape around the nozzle of the vacuum sweeper
as a sort of gasket so that the nozzle will seal well to to the
valve seat of the port to be marked. Now, turn on the vacuum,
place the nozzle in the valve seat, and when flow is established,
spritz some spray paint in either the exhaust outlet, or the carb
mounting flange. Just a 2 or 3 second burst is sufficient.
Proceed to mark all 16 ports the same way. Let the paint set for
a few minutes, then unbolt everything. You should see nice, clear
impressions of the inside edge of each manifold opening around each
port opening on the head. You should also see that the "roof" of
each port will not need to be cut very much at all to match it to
the manifold.

To port match the head, simply cut to this line of paint. Now,
blend back into each port about an inch to create a smooth
transition between the port opening and the port runner. Use the
3/8" round nose cutter for this job. Do not be concerned about the
large amount of metal that needs to be removed from the lower edge
of the exhaust ports. However, do not try to create a straight
line from port opening to the valve seat. It is likely that
the water jacket will be cut into if this is attempted. Chrysler
small block heads do not flow exhaust gas particularly well, due to
a retrograde flow along the floor of the exhaust ports. This
"riptide" sets up turbulence in the port and impedes flow. To
minimize this phenomenon, leave as much metal as possible on the
floor of the exhaust ports, particularly about 1" in from the
exhaust manifold mounting flange. This will create a sort of dam
which will help prevent the retrograde flow. When the experts
modify small block heads for maximum performance, some metal may
even be added in this area by brazing.

There are several obstructions present in the ports which can be
dealt with to varying degrees. On the intake side, there is a bump
in the roof of each port near the opening. This is a cast-in boss
for one of the valve cover bolts. It can be completely removed
without problems unless the bolt holes are inaccurately drilled.
If the holes are not centered over the web between adjacent intake
ports, it is likely that the hole will be penetrated attempts are
made to completely remove the boss. There is a "dog-leg" in the
intake ports resulting from the pushrod hole. The wall of this
obstruction is only about 1/8" thick on the '85 up heads, so it
cannot be completely removed. However, some of it can be cut off
to widen the port at this point. Do not be too aggressive, and
eyeball the pushrod hole to get an idea of where you are. On
earlier heads with the small pushrod hole, more of this obstruction
can be safely ground off. For intake ports, the floor is critical
to flow. Take care to clean casting defects from this area and the
walls. Do not polish intake ports, the roughness helps to keep
gasoline vapor in suspension by creating turbulence. On the
exhaust side, there is a bump in the roof of each port. Do NOT try
to remove this obstruction completely, or the water jacket will be
penetrated. Similar to the intake dogleg, however, some metal can
be removed from the highest point of this bump to make the exhaust
port taller. Do not be too aggressive here either.
Now that you've spent 8-10 hours on the grinder, you're developing
some real skill in controlling it. You're ready to start cutting
in the bowls themselves. This is the touchiest part of home-
porting because of the supreme control and concentration needed to
avoid gouging a valve seat and ruining the head. Make sure the
burr is fully inserted PAST the valve seat before powering up the
grinder. In other words, do not try to pass a spinning burr
through the valve seat opening.

There are several areas that need cutting in the bowls and chamber.
The heaviest cutting is to be done at the sides of the exhaust
bowls, where they transition into the runners. First, feel the
transition at the inside edges of the two exhaust bowls nearest the
center of the head. If you were to cut the head in two, making two
halves with two chambers on each half, the areas referred to here
would be immediately adjacent to that cut. Compare the feel of
these ideal profiles to the transition between bowl and runner in
the rest of the the bowls. Feel the difference? The rest of the
bowls have rather large bumps at this transition which may or may
not be removed, using any burr with a round nose. My opinion is
that these bumps represent obstructions to exhaust flow and should
be removed, but this opinion is NOT based on flow bench results.
Next, spend some time in the intake bowls with the 3/8" ball burr
to remove edges where the valve guide was machined. Do NOT try to
remove this obstruction, just round the corners off.

Probably the greatest single improvement to flow that can be made
is to cut off the parting line that runs through each bowl. This
parting line is parallel to the deck surface of the head, and is
present at the transition between valve seat and bowl. There is a
prominent corner where the outside edge of the exhaust valve seat
transitions directly into the floor of the exhaust port. Cut this
back so that the profile is a smooth curve. Not much metal is to
be removed, but removal of this corner is one of the most important
things you can do to improve the flow characteristics of small
block Chrysler heads. Be VERY careful to not damage the valve seat
during this procedure. The cylindrical burrs or the taper nose
burr work best for this cut.

The final cut to be made is the most dangerous to the valve seats,
and should be reserved until the porter's skills are maximized and
NOT be tried at the end of a long day. A tiny amount of metal is
removed in this cut, so fine control of the cutter is essential.
The cut is made to remove the step that exists between the valve
seat and the chamber itself. Some heads have very little metal to
be removed in this area, other heads have a 0.040" to 0.050" step.
The step is most detrimental to flow in the shrouded areas of the
valve (302 heads). Use the taper or 1/4" round nose burr for this
cut and do not try to remove the entire step with the cutter, come
back with a sandpaper roll to take off the last few thousandths and
finish the surface. During this cut, smooth the vertical parting
line which exists at the front and back edge of each chamber. In
high performance applications with radical cams, it may not be
advantageous to remove this step from the intake side, because it
restricts flow at low valve lift which is beneficial. If there is
some restriction of flow at low valve lifts, intake charge velocity
and inertial filling will be greater as the intake valve continues
to lift, resulting in a greater intake charge overall. Since CFM
is very small at low valve lifts, a change in flow at this point
has a smaller potential effect on the total intake charge than a
change in inertial filling at higher valve lifts.

OK, now the cutting has been completed, you're ready to switch over
to sandpaper rolls to finish the surfaces. Start with the exhaust
port runners to get a feel for how the grinder behaves. Use a
coarse cylindrical roll to finish roof, floor, and sides, and a
coarse taper roll to finish the corners of each exhaust port
runner. You can do some slight smoothing of the intake port at the
port opening, just to take off your mill marks from the previous
cutting. Proceed to finishing the exhaust bowls, using taper
rolls, or cylindrical rolls that have a round end as a result of
use in the runners. Take off enough metal to completely remove the
cast texture from the mold. Watch the valve seat as you polish to
give the best avoidance of contact of the sandpaper rolls with the
valve seats. After you've done everything with coarse paper,
switch to fine and start over. Expect to spend almost as much time
polishing as was spent cutting.

The last thing to be polished is the transition between the valve
seat and the chamber. You won't be able to polish in the shrouded
areas of the chamber, but try to take off mill marks from previous
cutting in the rest of the chamber, and take off any sharp corners
that may exist. The margin of each chamber can be rounded off
slightly to prevent hot spots and pre-ignition.

OK, now that you are finished porting, all that remains is to have
the valve seats ground. The three-angle valve job is a standard in
performance heads. You might need to come back with sandpaper
rolls and remove any edges that arise from the seat grinding
procedure, but for all intents and purposes, you're ready to hit
the streets and kick some Brand X butt! The beauty of this
procedure is that it is completely in apparent unless the engine is
torn down. The Mopar Engines book says that the home porter can
expect improvements from 5-10 HP, but that the potential exists to
get 50 additional HP out of the 302 heads!


== References ==
* Originally compiled by Paul M. Pitcher

[[Category:Engines]]
[[Category:Engine Modifications]]

{| border="1"
! [[:Category:Casting Numbers|Casting Number]] !! [[Broadcast Sheet]] !! [[Data Plate]] !! Year !! Side !!Applications !! Image

|-
| [[2863900]] || ? || ? || 1969 || passenger (LH) || 383 & 440 [[A_Body_1960|A body]] ||N/A

|-
| [[3460217]] || ? || ? || 1969 || driver (RH) || 440 [[A_Body_1960|A body]] ||N/A

|}

[[Category:Engines]]

== History ==
;Years:
{{Y Body 1981 model years}}
;Body Styles
{{Y Body 1981 body styles}}

== Models==
{{Y Body 1981 models}}

== Architecture==
* Front longitudinal engine
* Rear wheel drive

== Suspension ==
* Independent front
* Live axel rear

== Engines ==
* ?

== Body ==
[[Category:Platforms]]

== LA Manifolds ==
{| border="1"
! [[:Category:Casting Numbers|Casting Number]] !! [[Broadcast Sheet]] !! [[Data Plate]] !! Year !! Side !!Applications !! Outlet !! Image

|-
| [[2863553]] || ? || ? || 1968 || ? || 340 || 2.25 || None

|-
| [[3418683]] || ? || ? || 197? || ? || 340 || 2.000 || None

|-
| [[33010187]] || ? || ? || 197? || ? || Truck || 1.875 || None

|}




== Magnum Manifolds ==
The MP LA performance book said that the right side 340HP manifold flows just a bit better than the magnum manifolds, but the left side magnum one is superior to the 340 HP. That'd be the optimal one, but given the rarity of them the magnum ones are the better value. The 92-93 magnum manifolds are the desirable years as they are a bit larger


{| border="1"
! [[:Category:Casting Numbers|Casting Number]] !! [[Broadcast Sheet]] !! [[Data Plate]] !! Year !! Side !!Applications !! Outlet !! Image

|-
| [[53006618]] || ? || ? || 1992 || passenger || ? || ? ||rowspan="1"| [[Image:53006618-1.jpg|thumb|Manifold installed on a B van]]

|-
| [[53006619]] || ? || ? || 1992 || driver || ? || ? ||rowspan="1"| [[Image:53006619-1.jpg|thumb|Manifold installed on a B van]]

|}



[[Category:Casting Numbers]]
[[Category:Engines]]

== Chrysler Senior Vice President for Design ==

[[Category:Biographies|Herlitz, John]]

;[http://www.moparsunlimited.org/ Mopars Unlimited: Tacoma Chapter]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

;[http://www.nwmopars.com/ Northwest Chapter - Mopars Unlimited]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

;[http://www.cowtownmopars.com/ Cowtown Mopars]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

;[http://www.cnymopar.com/ CENTRAL NEW YORK MOPAR ASSOCIATION]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

;[http://www.dodgechargerregistry.com/ Dodge Charger Registry]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

;[http://www.pajeeps.org/ PA Jeeps]: Club Home Page

[[Category:clubs]]

== President-Chrysler ==


[[Category:Biographies|Boyd, Virgil]]

== President-Chrysler ==


[[Category:Biographies|Riccardo, John]]

== Vice President and General Manager-Chrysler-Plymouth ==


[[Category:Biographies|Anderson, Bob]]

== Dodge Product Planner ==


[[Category:Biographies|Jacoby, Gene]]

== Manager-Chrysler Production Control Department ==


[[Category:Biographies|Engel, Elmer]]

== Chief Engineer-Car and Truck Assembly Group ==


[[Category:Biographies|Steer, Bob]]

== Executive Engineer-Powerplant Engineering ==


[[Category:Biographies|Engle, Dean]]

== Head of Chrysler Performance ==


[[Category:Biographies|Maxwell, Dick]]

* Assistant to [[Jack Smith]].
* Came up with the name [[Road Runner]]

[[Category:Biographies|Cherry, Gordon]]

== Product Planner for Midsize Plymouths ==
* Road Runner



[[Category:Biographies|Smith, Jack]]

== XSLT Test ==


<
[[Link title]]
xsltTest/>

78's may have had different size tires, since they had 15X7's on the
front, and 15X8's on the rear. But 79's had 8" on all corners.

One interesting note. (two, actually) The 78's had no spare, while the
79's had a matching styled wheel spare. I think this is the only time
Mopar had a matching styled wheel included as a spare.

[[Category:Wheels]]

== Challenger ==

=== 1/43 ===

* '70 R/T Zaugg of Switzerland early 1990's
* '70 T/A Boss Models line by SMTS of England
* '71 R/T Matchbox Models of Yestryear

=== 1/72 ===

* '70 T/A Playing Mantis Johnny Lightning Thunderjet 500

[[Category:Automobilia]]

What are the biggest tires that will fit? Here is what our readers are reporting. Your mileage may vary; measure twice, order once; you get the picture.


== B Body ==
;No cutting or Rubbing
* 335's, right around 5.5" backspace with 10" rims

;Some modifications

== E Body ==
;No cutting or Rubbing
* 295/35 x 18 's in rear , 10" rims , 5 5/8's backspace

;Some modifications

[[Category:FAQ]]
[[Category:Suspension Modifications]]
[[Category:Wheels]]

Plymouth Trail Duster/Dodge Ramcharger plain steel 15x8s... these go for big bucks... these look like the rims your hubcaps usually hide, just an inch wider

[[Category:Wheels]]

Aspen/Volare Super Coupe wheels: 15x8 These look like cop rims, except they don't have the "nubs" to fit a dog dish hubcap on... they use a center cap... also found on some Dodge Magnum GTs.

[[Category:Wheels]]

cop wheel centers measure 13.25"

[[Category:Wheels]]

Steel wheels are another story , but the insides of plain jane steel
wheels and cop wheels are the same . 13.25".... The one that is really
different is the early style steel wheels that take the larger 10 1/8 dog
dish hubcaps.

[[Category:Wheels]]

magnum 500 wheel centers measure 12.25

[[Category:Wheels]]

The entire universe is right handed, except for the lug nuts on a Chrysler. Well, that ended in 1970 and then only on the left side.

The idea was that engine torque and rotation wouldn't be as likely to loosen left handed lug nuts on the left hand side of the car. An easy way to remember this is, "Left on left, right on right." The madness ended in 1970. The 1971 models rolled off the assembly line with four sets of right handed wheel studs.

Back in the day, many neophyte mechanics and new owners snapped wheel studs not realizing they were tightening the lug nut or swapped brake disks side to side. Because of this, many cars have odd combinations of right and left hand studs. Check the wheel stud type before you remove a tire on an old Mopar.

[[Category:Wheels]]

[http://www.specialtywheelsltd.org/ Specialty Wheels, Ltd ]


[[Category:Aftermarket Suppliers]]
[[Category:Wheel Suppliers]]
[[Category:Wheels]]

== 1969 Cast Road Wheel ==
* [[Dart]]
* [[Charger]]

{{:Recall Wheel}}

[[Category:Wheels]]
[[Category:Option Codes|W23]]